The Miss Molly I Adventures - part two
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The Lions Gate to Friday Harbor
On 17th April, at 08:45, having said our goodbyes to all our mates in Vancouver and area, we untied our dock lines and motored out of Mosquito Creek marina for the last time. It was a rainy morning and we just wanted to get going, without overdoing it on our first day.
Leaving - on a grey, wet day,
We'd picked out Manion Bay on Bowen Island for our first destination, just a few hours away, so we motored out in the still morning air, under the Lions Gate Bridge and away from the place that had been home for the last 14 months or so.
Beyond the Lions Gate
Beyond the Lions Gate we picked up a good sailing wind and arrived at our destination 4 hours later, in time for lunch. We dropped the hook in what we thought would be a good spot and settled down to relax for the rest of the afternoon, evening and night. It wasn't a relaxing afternoon, evening, or night. Manion Bay is a ferry port, and every time a ferry went by, Miss Molly I rolled virtually onto her beam ends. Doing anything onboard was extremely difficult. If this was a taste of things to come, it wasn't going to be much fun! - As it turned out, this was by far the rolliest spot we ever stopped in in Miss Molly I, but we didn't know that at the time!
Vancouver to Nanaimo - Source: Google maps
The following morning, we weighed anchor and headed off on what seemed at the time like our first long passage, across the Georgia Strait. We sailed through the morning in diminishing winds, which diminished so far as to leave us motoring in the afternoon, dodging the plentiful driftwood (driftwood in this part of the world refers to entire tree trunks that have broken free of rafts of logs that are being towed from the logging source to be processed elsewhere), to our intended anchorage in Silva Bay on Gabriola Island. It was a beautiful, sunny day and the whole trip, and indeed the anchorage, were thoroughly enjoyable - we were now truly away and cruising :-)
Instant cruising
Far from the madding...
One of the things we had to do was to go into the town of Nanaimo on Vancouver Island in order to pick up the new boat papers that the boat registry office there had prepared for us. So, after a lovely, quiet night in Silva Bay, we set off again the next morning to head nothwest up the outside of Gabriola Island and through the gap between the northmost point of Gabriola and Entrance Island. There was a perfect sailing breeze from the southeast and we touched 6 knots on occasions.
Rounding the top of Gabriola, a sudden change of wind from Taylor Bay caused an unexpected jibe (not normally a problem with a junk rig) and and 3 of my latest attempts at bamboo battens broke! From there on, we motored somewhat dejectedly into Nanaimo harbour and tied up at the Government Wharf at about 13:00.
Rounding the top of Gabriola, a sudden change of wind from Taylor Bay caused an unexpected jibe (not normally a problem with a junk rig) and and 3 of my latest attempts at bamboo battens broke! From there on, we motored somewhat dejectedly into Nanaimo harbour and tied up at the Government Wharf at about 13:00.
Entrance Island off the northeast tip of Gabriola Island
After a quick lunch, we walked into the town, had a browse around and collected our boat papers that were indeed waiting for us at the office there. We then returned to the boat, untied and motored over to anchor in Mark Bay, Newcastle Island. There was quite a blow from the southeast, but the anchorage there is ideally protected by the aptly-named Protection Island. We anchored in 8m of water and felt secure.
Clearly we needed a new plan with regards to sail battens. I decided to head ashore and scout around for suitable batten material. This I found in the form of young softwood trees growing in the dense woods there. I cut three to replace the broken battens and stripped them of their bark there in the silence of woods - as I looked around, a deer was stood watching me. Delightful! I carried the tree pieces to the dinghy, rowed out to the boat and that afternoon, gave them a good soaking in linseed oil/paraffin mix. When they were dry, I lashed them in place on the sail and used some of the better remnants of the broken battens to double up the other bamboo battens that were still in use. It all looked significantly stronger!
We stayed at anchor there for 3 days and nights. On the last afternoon, we were hailed by a couple out rowing around the anchorage. We had a chat - they knew Miss Molly I from her previous incarnation, as she'd been anchored out in that area for many a year, and recognised her instantly. They invited us for tea over to their boat that was also anchored in the bay and was quite an eye-catcher. We headed over and spent a delightful afternoon in their company. They were called Sharie and Allen Farrell - Sharie was well in her 80s (I believe) and Allen in his late 70s. They were gentle, softly-spoken and extremely knowledgeable about boats and boating. They told us they had built their boat themselves from 'driftwood' (as already mentioned, driftwood means whole tree trunks in Western Canada), largely hand-sawn and built with hand tools. The boat, on which they lived, cruising through the Gulf Islands, was beautiful and a lesson in practical, alternative simplicity. It was an engineless, 3-masted Chinese junk with rocks as internal ballast, a wood-burning stove and a roomy, comfortable interior. They showed us around the boat and its rig, told us they could sail it backwards, and, at the end of the day, gave as a set of drawings of the lines of the boat in case we should ever be tempted to build a version ourselves.
It also turned out that we sort of knew Allen's son Barrie, who built fibreglass fishing boats in a workshop next to Popeye's at Mosquito Creek. We had chatted with Barry on a few occasions as we passed by on our regular way to and from Popeye's.
I know a book has since been written about Allen and Sharie - I've read it and thoroughly enjoyed it (Sailing Back In Time by Maria Coffey and Dag Goering - link on 'Resources' page!) and also that there are a couple of interesting YouTube videos about them (links also on 'Resources'). I can only add that we found them delightfully friendly, open and relaxed, whilst at the same time being supremely fit and extremely capable - they made quite an impression!
Clearly we needed a new plan with regards to sail battens. I decided to head ashore and scout around for suitable batten material. This I found in the form of young softwood trees growing in the dense woods there. I cut three to replace the broken battens and stripped them of their bark there in the silence of woods - as I looked around, a deer was stood watching me. Delightful! I carried the tree pieces to the dinghy, rowed out to the boat and that afternoon, gave them a good soaking in linseed oil/paraffin mix. When they were dry, I lashed them in place on the sail and used some of the better remnants of the broken battens to double up the other bamboo battens that were still in use. It all looked significantly stronger!
We stayed at anchor there for 3 days and nights. On the last afternoon, we were hailed by a couple out rowing around the anchorage. We had a chat - they knew Miss Molly I from her previous incarnation, as she'd been anchored out in that area for many a year, and recognised her instantly. They invited us for tea over to their boat that was also anchored in the bay and was quite an eye-catcher. We headed over and spent a delightful afternoon in their company. They were called Sharie and Allen Farrell - Sharie was well in her 80s (I believe) and Allen in his late 70s. They were gentle, softly-spoken and extremely knowledgeable about boats and boating. They told us they had built their boat themselves from 'driftwood' (as already mentioned, driftwood means whole tree trunks in Western Canada), largely hand-sawn and built with hand tools. The boat, on which they lived, cruising through the Gulf Islands, was beautiful and a lesson in practical, alternative simplicity. It was an engineless, 3-masted Chinese junk with rocks as internal ballast, a wood-burning stove and a roomy, comfortable interior. They showed us around the boat and its rig, told us they could sail it backwards, and, at the end of the day, gave as a set of drawings of the lines of the boat in case we should ever be tempted to build a version ourselves.
It also turned out that we sort of knew Allen's son Barrie, who built fibreglass fishing boats in a workshop next to Popeye's at Mosquito Creek. We had chatted with Barry on a few occasions as we passed by on our regular way to and from Popeye's.
I know a book has since been written about Allen and Sharie - I've read it and thoroughly enjoyed it (Sailing Back In Time by Maria Coffey and Dag Goering - link on 'Resources' page!) and also that there are a couple of interesting YouTube videos about them (links also on 'Resources'). I can only add that we found them delightfully friendly, open and relaxed, whilst at the same time being supremely fit and extremely capable - they made quite an impression!
Allen and Sharie Farrell's excellent 'China Cloud'
On 22nd April, after a quick shopping trip to Nanaimo, we were once more underway. Following advice from Allen Farrell, we timed our approach to Dodd Narrows perfectly and passed through at high tide, just as it was turning to flow in our direction. Currents in excess of 9 knots are possible in this small gap between Vancouver Island and Mudge Island, so it was important to get it right! We shot out of the narrows with the current and enjoyed a fast downwind sail to Herring Bay on Ruxton Island. The breeze was ideal as we sailed down Stuart Channel with 1 and sometimes 2 reefs in and we were able to sail right into the anchorage. It was a truly delightful sail and my new battens performed wonderfully - maybe I'd found the answer!!
Naniamo to Ruxton Island (Source : Google Maps)
Herring Bay, Ruxton Island, with view of snow-capped mountains on Vancouver Island
After a leisurely morning and lunch sandwich, we headed out of Herring Bay the next day, in winds that were so light that I got to try out my new (secondhand, found in the bins) ghoster sail. Our junk rig had the usual unstayed mast, so a foresail could only be flown in very light airs, but this was the perfect opportunity. Off of Thetis Island, the wind died completely and we were left to motor on to our anchorage in Clam Bay on the northern end of Penelakut Island. It was a glorious sunny day and we anchored around 17:30 after some 4 and a bit hours of drifting along.
We always anchored on chain only from the bow, and we had a selection of anchors to choose from - a 30lb navy anchor that at this stage I was using as our main anchor, a large 45lb fisherman's and a 22lb Danforth. Using the navy was a bit experimental as I'd never used this type of anchor before, but we used it quite extensively without problems. As we had no windlass and I was pulling the length of chain and anchor up by hand, the navy presented a more manageable weight than the fisherman's (the Danforth was really only intended as a backup or stern anchor). We always put out a minimum of a generously rounded-up 5 times the maximum (in tidal areas) water depth (I had marked the chain every 5m with coloured cable ties to indicate the length being let out) and that was increased if I had any doubts about holding or wind/current conditions. The holding power of an all-chain rode is worth the work though, and we never once had problems with dragging anchors or the rode getting tangled up in any way. If we had to deploy a second anchor (either bow or stern), I had a short length of chain (8m) shackled to the anchor with a 200ft, 1 inch nylon rode attached to that.
We always anchored on chain only from the bow, and we had a selection of anchors to choose from - a 30lb navy anchor that at this stage I was using as our main anchor, a large 45lb fisherman's and a 22lb Danforth. Using the navy was a bit experimental as I'd never used this type of anchor before, but we used it quite extensively without problems. As we had no windlass and I was pulling the length of chain and anchor up by hand, the navy presented a more manageable weight than the fisherman's (the Danforth was really only intended as a backup or stern anchor). We always put out a minimum of a generously rounded-up 5 times the maximum (in tidal areas) water depth (I had marked the chain every 5m with coloured cable ties to indicate the length being let out) and that was increased if I had any doubts about holding or wind/current conditions. The holding power of an all-chain rode is worth the work though, and we never once had problems with dragging anchors or the rode getting tangled up in any way. If we had to deploy a second anchor (either bow or stern), I had a short length of chain (8m) shackled to the anchor with a 200ft, 1 inch nylon rode attached to that.
Ruxton Island to Penelakut Island. (Source: Google Maps)
We were getting into the swing of things and really starting to enjoy island sailing. We'd basically get up at sunrise and have tea and porridge, sail most days, then anchor up, cook some dinner, relax and enjoy the scenery and read 'til sundown, or shortly afterwards, and then turn in for the night. Life was good! We sailed down the Trincomali Channel between Galiano and Saltspring Islands, spending a night off of Julia Island, about halfway down Galiano Island; we went in to Fulford Harbour on Saltspring Island, and on to Tsehum Harbour where we stopped for a week to do some shopping, visit Victoria on Vancouver Island, clear out of Canada and do a few bits of work on the boat. Wherever we stopped, we anchored - it was free and so kept the cruising costs to a minimum, but it was also marvelously peaceful. There was always somewhere to land or tie up the dinghy, so going ashore was no problem if desired.
I was quite nervous about entering the United States - we were heading that way as the next leg on our voyage - and wanted to make sure we and the boat complied with the US safety and equipment requirements - we bought a few bits from a chandlery in Sydney. I didn't know what to expect from the US customs and immigration officials, so we gave the boat a good clean and generally made her shipshape.
I was quite nervous about entering the United States - we were heading that way as the next leg on our voyage - and wanted to make sure we and the boat complied with the US safety and equipment requirements - we bought a few bits from a chandlery in Sydney. I didn't know what to expect from the US customs and immigration officials, so we gave the boat a good clean and generally made her shipshape.
The southern Gulf Islands, Canada and San Juan Islands, USA (Source: Google Maps)
After a week in Tsehum Harbour, it was time to leave Canada and see what the United States would bring. The vague plan, after checking in to the US, was to explore Puget Sound for about a month, get the boat ready for an ocean passage, and then, sometime in June, when, according to records, the Pacific is at its most pacific, to head out into the ocean and make our way quickly south. I even imagined hopping all the way down the US Pacific coast in one go!
We fuelled and watered at the fuel dock and headed out of Tsehum Harbour at about 08:15, initially motoring between the small islands there. The wind picked up and our crossing of the Haro Strait was our first experience of waves of any significance in this boat (they don't look at all significant in the photo, but I recorded it in the ship's log, so they must have been!). Miss Molly I handled it all famously and midway across the Haro Strait, Karin raised the US courtesy flag. We passed along the north side of San Juan Island and turned south-southeast down between San Juan Island and Orcas Island. The wind died as we approached Friday Harbor on San Juan Island and we motored in to the harbour there. We tied up at the dock and headed up to do the checking in formalities somewhat nervously - this was our first international crossing in this boat (we'd previously crossed from Turkey to Greece and back a few times and so were aware of how ornery officialdom can be - not to mention once having had quite an ordeal attempting to board a ferry to leave Israel).
The port captain and passport control went smoothly and then it was time to clear customs. As already mentioned, we'd spent quite a bit of time preparing the boat for a safety equipment and customs inspection, so we certainly thought we'd be alright...
We walked into the customs office and explained that we'd just arrived from Canada and that the boat was moored down at the dock. The customs man asked us if we had any citrus fruit on board, to which we rather surprisedly but truthfully answered "no", and that was that, no inspection, no questions about immigrants or firearms, or drugs, etc, etc. We were officially in the USA :-)
We fuelled and watered at the fuel dock and headed out of Tsehum Harbour at about 08:15, initially motoring between the small islands there. The wind picked up and our crossing of the Haro Strait was our first experience of waves of any significance in this boat (they don't look at all significant in the photo, but I recorded it in the ship's log, so they must have been!). Miss Molly I handled it all famously and midway across the Haro Strait, Karin raised the US courtesy flag. We passed along the north side of San Juan Island and turned south-southeast down between San Juan Island and Orcas Island. The wind died as we approached Friday Harbor on San Juan Island and we motored in to the harbour there. We tied up at the dock and headed up to do the checking in formalities somewhat nervously - this was our first international crossing in this boat (we'd previously crossed from Turkey to Greece and back a few times and so were aware of how ornery officialdom can be - not to mention once having had quite an ordeal attempting to board a ferry to leave Israel).
The port captain and passport control went smoothly and then it was time to clear customs. As already mentioned, we'd spent quite a bit of time preparing the boat for a safety equipment and customs inspection, so we certainly thought we'd be alright...
We walked into the customs office and explained that we'd just arrived from Canada and that the boat was moored down at the dock. The customs man asked us if we had any citrus fruit on board, to which we rather surprisedly but truthfully answered "no", and that was that, no inspection, no questions about immigrants or firearms, or drugs, etc, etc. We were officially in the USA :-)
Crossing the border into the USA
The harbour at Friday Harbor- our point of entry to the USA
